Wednesday, September 26, 2018
A la prochaine Lyon and France
A last walk before breakfast. A sunny but cool morning with everyone heading off to work or school, and the shops getting ready to open. It really feels like fall today.
The Lyon airport is a long way out of town, and to take a taxi is quite expensive. Instead we walk several blocks to the metro, take the metro to the light rail station for the express train to the airport. Well signed and easy, and takes about 45 min. Cost about 18 euro.
Lyon Saint Exuperey airport is very modern and efficient. A calm day, and a lovely view of the Alps on our flight to Munich. Even though our flight was a bit late there was no problem transiting Munich airport, it's really a great airport to connect through. A smooth flight to Vancouver, once again the flight is full. I'm really glad we flew in Premium Economy.
A lovely fall evening in Vancouver when we land. Canada Line from the airport, then the Seabus, and finally a bus home to a warm welcome.
Tuesday, September 25, 2018
Culinary Lyon
Lyon is known as the food capital of France. The famous chef, Paul Boucuse really put it on the map, and there are more Michelin star restaurants per capita here than anywhere else. There are also the typical Lyon Bouchons, that offer the regional specialties at a reasonable price. I haven't been brave enough to try tripes and tete de veau (veal's head) but the quenelles (pike mousseline) and praline pie are delicious. the city has a bewildering variety of restaurants, and people seem to spend a long time over their meals, really enjoying their food. And everything closes for 2 hours for lunch.There are small street markets, food stores and shops with the most amazing food displays.
Lyon last day
Breakfast in the room as per usual. Afterwards I went for a walk along both rivers. A very blustery morning, and a lot cooler than it's been. Today the market along the Saone isn't selling food, instead selling cheap clothing, watches, suitcases etc. The Rhone river banks are quite different. More shipping, both cargo and pleasure craft. On the Part Dieu side there are parks, walking and biking paths, and a large sports complex.
A little later Karen, Aaron and I take a walk up through the Croix Rousse area. It's on a hill, and has some steep streets and many steps. On our way back we stopped at a boulangerie to pickup sandwiches and pastries- they are all so beautiful (and so delicious) Certainly getting good use of our little kitchenette.
Anna and Brian left for Avignon this morning, Jan & Gerard to Paris CDG, and Karen & Aaron to Geneva. We heard that both Jan & Gerard and Karen & Aaron's trains were delayed. Always hard to find out why!
Ian and I headed out for another stroll, and to check out a few stores. Some lovely fashions, but we are just window shopping, not serious!
Back to the room to pack up and for an aperitif before heading out for our last dinner in Lyon.
We headed over to Rue des Marronniers, a street with lots of restaurants near Place Bellecour, and decide on A la Peche aux Moules. Ian had Moules with roquefort sauce, and I had prawns and scallops in a fresh tomato sauce. Very good, and not too heavy. We had a lovely walk back in the twilight, enjoying the illuminations.
Monday, September 24, 2018
Lyon second day
Once again we go down to the market along the river. It's even busier today and with more stalls as it's Sunday. Today along with the roasted chicken and pork, there is a stall selling paella and boeuf bourguignon. Not only does the produce look wonderful, the prices are very reasonable, and the taste of everything we've bought is fantastic. Then we cross the river again to the old town. We made a dinner reservation for the 8 of us at a restaurant that Aaron had read about, then headed down to another market (art and crafts) along this river bank. It was lovely to stroll along under the trees, and with a breeze from the river. Lot's of interesting things to look at, and Karen & I both bought jewelry. We bumped into Anna & Brian and Jan & Gerard several times, shopping as well! There was a kayak race on the river today, so that was fun to see. Every type of paddling craft from high tech, outrigger, stand-up boards, to plastic and blow up.
Around 2pm, everything starts to shut down, from the markets, to the stores, and most of the restaurants. We go back to our room for another lunch of bread, cheese, sausage and fresh vegetables Today was a good day for a siesta as it's so hot.
We did another stroll along the pedestrian streets later in the day.Almost everything is closed on a Sunday, even a few restaurants.
Tonight is the last time the 8 of us will be together, so we gather in our room for a Kir before heading over to the restaurant in Vieux Lyon for dinner. A beautiful evening - looks like a full moon.
A fantastic dinner at Le Tire Bouchon. I have one of the set menus with Escargot in a garlic and parsley sauce, Pike mousseline in a crayfish sauce, and Tarte aux pralines. All traditional Lyonaise dishes, and all delicious!
We had a long and merry dinner, it's sad to think tomorrow we all head off in different directions.
Sunday, September 23, 2018
First day in Lyon
Nice sunny day, but cooler than it's been. (about 15 in the morning, and high of 23) We had coffee, yogurt and fruit in our room, then headed to the market on the banks of the Saone, very close to our hotel. All kinds of produce, cheese, meat and fish for sale. Lovely looking chicken and sausage cooked on the rotisserie. We bought small sweet tomatoes, figs, croissants and some more cheese. Also tried a flat bread with spinach and cheese. Back to the room for more coffee with the croissants and figs - lovely!
We then went for a walk down some of the pedestrian shopping streets to Place Bellecour.
Our walking tour started from our hotel at 2:30pm. Our guide- Jean Alexandre was fantastic! He really did show us the best of Lyon. It's hard to describe how beautiful the city is. There are Haussmann style boulevards like Paris, the medieval old town with narrow twisting streets, grand buildings and squares, the hillsides with pastel colors, the bridges and river banks of both the Saone and Rhone rivers, Roman ruins, and over it all the Basilica dominating the town.
We walked, took the metro, the funicular up to the Basilica, and many steep paths back down the hill and through the old city. We also went through some of the old "traboules" or covered passages between streets, and heard about the history of the silk industry.
At the end our feet were sore, but we wouldn't have missed it! After a much needed rest some of us headed out on the metro to try a recommended restaurant. Saturday night, so everything is very busy, and not possible to get a reservation. After navigating through the metro & train station and finding our restaurant, it's over 1 hour wait. Too long, so we head to a street near our hotel filled with restaurants. We had a great meal, and lots of fun though the service was terrible!
I had mussels and frites in a lyonaise sauce (white wine, mustard, onions, ham and parsley) The fish and chips looked very good too. A long day, so I think we'll take it easy tomorrow.
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On to Lyon
Our tour ended at the train station. While waiting for our train, several of us took a walk into the Dijon city center. There is a music festival on, and hundreds of music boxes with the operators all dressed in period costume!
Less than 2 hours on the TGV to Lyon. We had a driver that transfered us through the busy streets to our hotel the Citadines Presqu'lle Lyon located on the peninsula between the Saone and the Rhone rivers. Late afternoon we had a "Foodie" walking tour with a very quirky guide. Afterwards, the wind picked up and it looked like a storm was coming in. As we were tired (and had a kitchenette) we picked up some wine and food (bread, salads, cheese and duck terrine)for a relaxed and easy night.
Saturday, September 22, 2018
The last evening, and farewell to the Daniele.
We had a final aperitif in the lounge with both guests and crew, then on to the last dinner where Pascal outdid himself.
Foi gras as a starter, then beef wellington, and a super chocolate charlotte for desert.We are very sad to be leaving the Daniele. In just a week we almost feel like family! It's been a great group, no complaining, everyone got along well. And I can't say enough about our crew, and C.E.O. Sarah - all fantastic!
Friday, September 21, 2018
The Daniele
We have really enjoyed the Daniele, well designed and very comfortable. She was built by CroisiEurope for G Adventures in 2016. There are 11 twin cabins on the lower deck, all with A/C and private bathroom. There are 2 windows in each cabin, just above the water level.
The main deck has the dining room, bar, lounge, outside deck with tables/chairs/umbrellas, also the hot tub. The top or sundeck is only open when we are docked, or when we are on the river.( On the canals the bridges are so low that there is no room.)
She is designed with the locks and the bridges in mind, only centimeters of clearance!
Petite Ouges to Dijon
Another bike day! Breakfast then an 8:30am start. Today our "bike boys" are Eric and Jordan. Our route takes us along small roads and through pretty villages. Mostly rolling hills and very little traffic (thank goodness!). Mid morning we stop at the Chateau du Clos de Vougeot for a tour and to watch a video on the history called " Jamais en vain, toujours en vin " (never in vain, always in wine).
The building dates from the 11th century, and the vineyard started by monks. The size of the original kitchens and the wine press was incredible!
Afterwards we went to a nearby cave for a tour and wine tasting. There were hundreds if not thousands of old bottles of wine in the cellar, all sadly turned to vinegar.
We had a tasting of 4 wines, a cremeux, a chardonnay, a regional red, then a village red. So interesting to see the differences! Then on to lunch in the same village of Vougeot. Salad bar, fish with pumpkin custard and chips, and cheese to finish, and of course water, wine and coffee. Usually I am not fond of ham, but I'm really enjoying the parsley ham terrine from this area. 21 euros for the meal.
Afterwards, back on the bike through the famous vineyards and small towns. I recognize many of the names from wine bottles (usually ones that I can't afford!!) So pretty that I give up trying to take pictures and just enjoy the moment. The ride into Dijon was easy, traffic not too bad. The Daniele is waiting for us in a mini lake in a park on the outskirts of Dijon. Quite a few other barges, including Daniele's sister ship from CroisiEurope, the Jeanne. We have time for a shower, a drink, and for some a game of petanque before dinner.
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